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Kilmartin Glen
Spring 2007. Nature, Archaeology ( Part Two
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I made for the B8025 and its “tributary”
minor roads. On the way I spotted a road sign to Lady Glassary
Wood. I decided to have a look. I wasn't disappointed.... |
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The
first monument accessible from the carpark was a line of ancient
stones. The field was edged with many clumps of fushia bushes
in full bloom. I wonder how they got there? |
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Just
across the road from these stones, stood Templewood.
This very atmospheric stone circle was started over 5000 years
ago and its design was modified until about 1200BC when both cairns
were covered by large pebbles, perhaps to seal and preserve the
site, or maybe to bury and wipe it out – we just don’t
know!. It is thought its main purpose was associated with burials
and many artefacts have been discovered which are now in the Kilmartin
Museum. |
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The
Nether Largie South Cairn , as it's name suggests stands in the
south-most part of a 5000 years old linear cemetery which remained
in use for over 2000 years. |
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I
noticed the two main plants growing on the pebble cairns were
ferns and possibly a member of the water starwort family. |
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Other
cairns are to be found at Nether Largie Mid and Nether Largie
North. Templewood and Nether Largie Standing Stones and Ri Cruin
Cairn are also part of the line. Nobody knows whether these monuments
were built in a line on purpose or whether they are simply built
along an existing narrow terrace gauged out by Ice Age glaciers.
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It
was time to leave Nether Largie and I drove south down the B8025
and parked up just before the Crinan Canal. |
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I
was heading for a bird hide placed a hundred yards or so along
the canal towpath. The hide overlooks the point where the River
Add enters Loch Crinan. I set up my digiscope and managed to capture
a hooded crow and an oystercatcher each foraging for a snack,
a statue-like heron and a swan who seemed to be hiding. |
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After
I had satisfied myself that I had seen all the birds I was going
to see, I nipped along the canal to Crinan where I found the sea
lock to the canal. Two ancient-looking vessels were moored there,
the Vital Spark, the vessel which was featured in the BBC dramatization
of Para Handy, the famous novel by Neil Munro, and tugboat Duke
of Normandy. |
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At
the A816 end of the canal is Cairbaan the site of more stone carvings.
These are easily reached from a wooded path at the side of the
Cairbaan Hotel. The stones were very similar to the others I had
seen. Cup and Ring, spirals, circles, stars and grooves were all
very evident. |
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It
was now late afternoon and I decided to head for Craignish Point
at the end of Loch Craignish.
From the A816, I joined the B8002, a mainly single track road,
which led to a dead-end!
I decided to sit here, and for a few hours I enjoyed the views
of Jura and Islay. The ubiquitous oystercatchers and gulls came
and went as did hawks, probably buzzards hovering high in the
distance. These charming little ragged robin flowers nestling
between the rocks caught my eye. |
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Later
I went on a short trek to the south of the peninsula and witnessed
a strange sight. A small boat was caught in a large whirlpool.
The power of its engines were matched by the currents circulating
the spiral. After a time the boat pulled away. The famous Corryvreckan
whirlpool was a few miles to the west off Jura. The tides and
currents in this region must be well worth the watching! |
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Before
I returned home I had a fish supper from a traditional Italian
chipshop in the main street of Lochgilphead. I sat on a bench
overlooking Loch Gilp and ate it continuously watched by a flock
of birds which included a carrion crow, lots of black-headed gulls
and several common gulls. I threw them my last morsels and all
hell broke loose! |
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And so
the Kilnartin journey comes to a close. I will certainly come back
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