Kilmartin Glen Spring 2007. Nature, Archaeology
Kilmartin
Glen is blessed with some of the most beautiful and peaceful scenery in
Scotland. It is steeped in history and is rich in wildlife.
The main route through the
glen is the A816 from Lochgilphead in the south to Oban in the north.
The main village is Kilmartin which has a very impressive and prize-winning
Museum of Ancient Culture, with a very nice café!
I drove to Kilmartin and booked in at the Burndale B+B (what a Scottish
breakfast Dave does, not to mention his Loch Fyne kippers!). The main
purpose for my visit was to investigate the archaeology and natural beauty
of the area. After I dined at the very fine Kilmartin Hotel and as I took
the air I looked back along the glen from just outside the Kilmartin Hotel.
The tranquil and beautiful view was enhanced by the oxeye daisy and yellow
loosestrife flowers blooming boldly at my feet.
Oxeye Daisy
In
the morning I decided to explore the glen from south to north along the
A816 starting with the Achnabreck carvings.
Yellow Loosestrife
A
short trek up a modest slope leads to a very impressive fenced-off area
containing the most extensive group of rock carvings in Scotland. Exposed
bedrock shows many shapes carved into the rock over 4000 years ago. Shapes
include cup and ring marks, spirals, parallel grooves and stars. We can
only guess what significance these had to the Neolithic people who created
them.
On
returning to the car park I accidentally stood on a Black Slug (Arion
ater). Soon after I came across a pathetic little lost nestling, perhaps
a bird of prey such as a buzzard in the middle of the forestry road. In
all likelihood the mother was in the branches of a nearby tree waiting
for us to clear off so I left the baby alone.
As
I walked back to my car I noticed this vicious little tick on my jacket.
I flicked it off, knowing that ticks like this can transmit a range of
nasty infections
A
few kilometres north along the A816 from the Achnabreck turnoff I found
Dunadd a small fern-clad rocky hill standing proudly amid a marshy area
called the Great Moss.
The name “Dunadd” means the dun, or fort, on the river Add.
Archaeologists have determined that Dunadd was a significant centre of influence in 6th-8th century Scotland.
Rich goods were imported here from Britain and the Continent. It is also thought that the Scottish nation was born here. So I was reflecting on these facts as I climbed the hillside. What influential figures in Scotland's history had paced the steps I was taking? Did they see the Foxglove, Wood Sage and English Stonecrop?
The name “Dunadd” means the dun, or fort, on the river Add.
Archaeologists have determined that Dunadd was a significant centre of influence in 6th-8th century Scotland.
Rich goods were imported here from Britain and the Continent. It is also thought that the Scottish nation was born here. So I was reflecting on these facts as I climbed the hillside. What influential figures in Scotland's history had paced the steps I was taking? Did they see the Foxglove, Wood Sage and English Stonecrop?
Wood Sage
Foxglove
As
I wandered the ruins of the fort I found the legendary footprint carved
into the rock. It is believed that kings of the ancient kingdom of Dalriada
pledged their vows of kingship while placing their foot into this carving.
Close to this is a barely discernable carving of a wild boar. These facts
were probably unimportant to the slug slithering over the carving (which
I didn’t stand on this time). This is probably a Spanish Slug (Arion
lusitanicus).
English Stonecrop
At
the top of the hill the view along the Kilmartin Glen was very beautiful.
This valley has been gouged out by several waves of glaciers over many
hundreds of thousands of years.
Sneezewort
Eyebright
Ragwort
A
long trek north of this cairn, along a fenced-off corridor through the
farmer’s field, leads to an impressive set of rock carvings. Along
the way I noticed some pretty little Red Campion plants.
A
little further north along the A816
is the Dunchraigaig cairn, a 4000 year old burial chamber.
Wild Angelica
Spear
Thistle stand proudly before the stones.
To
the south of this cairn past cattle who seemed to guarding the exit the
Ballymeanoch Stones are to be found sharing a field with a large flock
of sheep. Younger members of the flock ignored my presence and got on
with their lunch.
On
my way back to Kilmartin I decided to nip along the B840 to check out
the village of Ford. On the way there I was astonished to see Alpacas
in the garden of a house by the road.
Ford, as it turns out, has to be a journey of it's own. Perhaps Summer 2008
Ford, as it turns out, has to be a journey of it's own. Perhaps Summer 2008
Ballymeanoch
Stones
It
was getting late, and there was a cool pint of Guinness, with my name
on it, in the bar at the Kilmartin Hotel